Tucked away in the heart of Split’s historic Diocletian’s Palace, a small green paradise awaits discovery. Known simply as “Vrtal” (pronounced vehr-tahl) by locals—meaning “The Garden” in Split’s Croatian dialect—this unexpected oasis has become one of the city’s most photographed spots, especially after gaining international attention through social media.
From Forgotten Space to Instagram Fame
This charming garden gained worldwide recognition when Game of Thrones actress Nathalie Emmanuel (who played Missandei in the hit series) shared a photo of herself sitting on the stone steps here. The image, showing her surrounded by ancient stone houses, hanging laundry lines, and lush Mediterranean plants, quickly went viral. Many followers initially guessed she was somewhere in Spain, but Emmanuel revealed she was actually in Split, Croatia.
The photo perfectly captured what makes Vrtal special: the striking contrast between centuries-old architecture and vibrant greenery, all set within the UNESCO World Heritage site of Diocletian’s Palace.
Finding This Hidden Treasure
Located on Dominisova Street, halfway between Peristil Square and the Golden Gate, Vrtal sits in the maze-like network of narrow alleys that make up Split’s ancient core. While it’s not particularly difficult to find, the winding passages of the old city can easily lead visitors astray—adding to the sense of discovery when you finally stumble upon it.
A Community-Created Paradise
What makes Vrtal truly remarkable is its origin story. This green space wasn’t part of any official city planning or tourism development. Instead, local residents have lovingly maintained and developed this garden for over 50 years, transforming what was once a neglected area filled with old appliances and debris into the verdant retreat you see today.
The garden features:
- Palm trees and Mediterranean plants
- Charming stone staircases perfect for photos
- Authentic clotheslines strung between buildings
- A genuine glimpse into local life within the palace walls
The transformation happened organically, with neighbors working together to create and maintain this communal space. Nobody knows exactly who started the cleanup or when the transition from waste yard to garden began, but the result has become one of the most beloved spots in the palace complex.
Ancient Mysteries and Local Legends
Adding to Vrtal’s mystique are two sculptural heads embedded in the building facade opposite the garden courtyard: a Moor’s head and an ancient Egyptian Sphinx head. The Sphinx head, built directly into the wall, adds another fascinating layer to Split’s already rich historical tapestry.
Local folklore surrounds this mysterious Sphinx. Historians debate whether it was part of a larger sculpture depicting a ruler or perhaps belonged to a complete sphinx statue. According to local superstition, the Sphinx possessed the power of petrification—anyone who looked directly into its eyes would turn to stone, similar to the Greek Gorgon myth. Even well into the 20th century, some Split residents would avert their eyes or cover them when passing by, fearing its supposed magical powers.
Visiting Vrtal Today
This small garden remains a testament to community spirit and the living history of Diocletian’s Palace. Unlike many tourist attractions, Vrtal isn’t commercialized—it’s simply a peaceful spot where ancient architecture meets everyday life.
The residents have even fought to preserve its authentic character. When a property owner attempted to open a bar with a terrace overlooking the garden, locals organized to protect their green sanctuary from commercial development.
Planning Your Visit
How to Get There: Enter Diocletian’s Palace through any of the main gates and make your way to Dominisova Street, between Peristil Square and the Golden Gate.
Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon offers the best lighting for photography and fewer crowds.
What to Look For:
- The contrast between stone architecture and green plants
- The ancient Sphinx head in the wall opposite the garden
- Authentic details like laundry lines and local plants
- Perfect photo opportunities on the stone steps
Why Vrtal Matters
In a palace complex filled with grand monuments and impressive architecture, Vrtal offers something different—a glimpse into how people actually live within these ancient walls. It’s not just a tourist attraction but a real community space, maintained with love by the people who call this UNESCO site home.
Whether you’re a Game of Thrones fan tracing filming locations, a history enthusiast exploring Diocletian’s Palace, or simply someone who appreciates finding unexpected beauty in historic cities, Vrtal provides a perfect pause in your Split adventure. This little green oasis proves that sometimes the best travel discoveries are the ones that aren’t in any guidebook—they’re the places where past and present, locals and visitors, ancient stones and living gardens all come together in perfect harmony.
Ready to explore more hidden gems in Split? Vrtal is just one of many surprises waiting within Diocletian’s Palace. Take time to wander the narrow streets, and you might just discover your own secret spot in this remarkable ancient city.