Zeljava Airbase: History and Adventure Tour

If you’re fascinated by Cold War relics, military architecture, or just love exploring abandoned sites, the Zeljava Airbase tour offers a compelling blend of history and adventure. While I haven’t done it personally, reviews and descriptions paint a vivid picture of an experience that’s both educational and a little bit adventurous.

We particularly like the detailed storytelling from guides, who bring the site to life with personal stories and insider knowledge, and the stunning views of the runway and surrounding hills. On the flip side, this tour isn’t suited for everyone — it involves walking through dark, sometimes tight tunnels and exploring a site that’s been out of use for decades.

This tour is best suited for history buffs, aviation enthusiasts, or those seeking a unique, slightly offbeat experience during a trip to Croatia. If you’re comfortable with some physical activity and are curious about Cold War secrets, you’ll find it well worth the €59 price tag.

This experience made our article of Croatia’s 4 Top Historical Tours.

Key Points

• In-depth exploration of tunnels and tunnels’ history offers a rare glimpse into Cold War military life.
• Guided storytelling enhances the experience with personal stories and contextual history.
• Strong flashlights are included, making it easier to navigate the dark interiors.
• Unmissable views of the abandoned runway and the plane-shaped hill.
• Not suitable for very young children, those with claustrophobia, or respiratory issues due to the tunnel walk.
• The tour is cost-effective, given the amount of exploration and storytelling included.

You can check availability for your dates here:

An Overview of the Zeljava Airbase Tour

Located in Zagreb County, Croatia, the Zeljava Airbase is a sprawling underground military installation, built during the Cold War era, designed to withstand nuclear attacks and serve as a strategic military hub. Today, it’s an atmospheric ruin, with vast tunnels, abandoned aircraft, and a history that echoes through its empty corridors.

The tour is operated by Thrill quest and costs $59 per person, making it a reasonably priced way to access a site that’s usually off-limits. Expect about a 2-3 hour journey that combines walking, driving, and exploration — a good mix for those who want a taste of adventure without it becoming an all-day affair.

Starting Point and First Impressions

The adventure begins at the front of an abandoned Douglas C-47 Skytrain, which is a highlight in itself. You get a rare chance to climb into and explore inside this vintage aircraft—an authentic piece of aviation history that’s open for inspection. For aircraft buffs or history lovers, this is a treat, and it sets the tone for the tour’s blend of aviation and military history.

From here, you’ll drive cautiously across the endless runways, imagining the adrenaline of pilots taking off. The views of the surrounding hills and the hole in the hill shaped like an aircraft add a surreal element to this abandoned airfield. It’s a poignant reminder of a time when airpower was central to military strategy.

Exploring the Tunnels – The Heart of the Tour

The tunnel system is the main event. You’ll meet your guide, who will provide a safety briefing and distribute strong flashlights—essential gear given the darkness of the underground passages. The tunnels stretch for about 3 kilometers, winding through the mountain and revealing how this base was built to operate hidden and protected.

Walking through these dark corridors, you’ll hear stories about the construction, operational days, and eventual destruction of the base. The guides frequently share personal anecdotes, which make the experience more relatable—like tales of relationships strained by the Cold War tensions or conflicts among the personnel.

The tunnels themselves are a mixture of intact and damaged areas, so expect some debris and signs of decay. The guided narration helps you understand what each space was used for—whether it’s living quarters, command centers, or maintenance areas. It’s a tangible connection to the Cold War era, offering insights beyond textbooks.

The Abandoned Hangars and Aircraft

Back above ground, the massive hangars and the abandoned aircraft ramps are striking. Many reviews mention the atmospheric quality of walking through the empty structures, with some describing it as “walking back in time.” The views of the surrounding landscape from these open spaces are incredible, especially given the site’s strategic location on a hill.

You’ll also get to stand next to the plane-shaped hole in the hill, which hints at the base’s covert design — built to be concealed from aerial surveillance. This feature alone makes the site worth visiting for aviation and military enthusiasts.

More Great Tours Nearby

Personal Stories and Authenticity

What sets this tour apart is the guide’s ability to share stories of the personnel who worked, fought, and sometimes conflicted during the base’s operational days. According to reviews, guides like Antonio are passionate and knowledgeable, providing a nuanced view of life at Zeljava. You’ll learn about the relationships between colleagues of different nationalities and how the Cold War divided even those working together.

One reviewer notes, “Antonio brought the place to life explaining the political and structural complexities of the base,” which adds a layer of depth to the visit. Such personal insights help travelers appreciate the human side of this Cold War relic.

Practical Information and Value

The tour is priced at $59 per person, which includes strong flashlights but excludes transportation — meaning you’ll need to arrange your own transfer to the meeting point. The convenience of meeting in front of the airplane makes for an easy start, but those unfamiliar with the area should plan accordingly.

Duration-wise, expect about 2-3 hours, which is enough to thoroughly explore the tunnels and take in the surroundings without feeling rushed. The tour is designed for flexible booking—cancel up to 24 hours in advance, which adds peace of mind.

It’s important to note that not everyone can participate — the tour isn’t suitable for children under 8, people with claustrophobia, respiratory issues, or wheelchair users. The tunnels can be dark and tight, and some areas are destroyed or uneven.

What to Bring and Wear

Given the underground environment, we recommend wearing comfortable, sturdy shoes—think boots or sneakers—and dressing in layers, including a jacket or hoodie, because tunnels can be cool. A mask might be advisable to protect against dust or respiratory irritants, especially if you’re sensitive.

Since the tour involves walking, some reviews suggest bringing a personal flashlight if you want extra light or prefer your own gear, though strong flashlights are provided.

Authentic Experiences and Reviews

The feedback about the tour is overwhelmingly positive. Many reviewers highlight guides like Antonio as extremely knowledgeable and passionate, offering a mix of facts and personal stories that make the experience memorable. For example, Oscar mentions, “Walking through the tunnels and standing by the abandoned aircraft ramps felt like stepping back in time,” capturing the atmospheric essence of the site.

One traveler, Tim, appreciates how the guide catered to questions and shared detailed background, noting, “He lives in the city and has deep knowledge about the history,” which adds a layer of trust and authenticity.

Final thoughts: Is it worth it?

If you’re interested in Cold War history, aviation, or abandoned military sites, this tour offers excellent value. You get to explore a significant and secretive piece of Cold War architecture with a guide who makes the experience engaging and informative. The cost is reasonable considering the extensive tunnel walk, storytelling, and access to unique structures.

However, be prepared for some physicality, and remember the tour’s focus on exploring a site that’s been left to decay for decades. The experience’s authenticity and storytelling make it a compelling choice, especially for those who love layered histories and atmospheric environments.

Who should consider this tour?

This adventure is perfect for history lovers, aviation fans, and explorers eager for a bit of adventure. It’s especially suited if you appreciate guided storytelling and aren’t afraid of dark, enclosed spaces. If you’re traveling with children, keep in mind the age restrictions and the physical demands of the tunnels.

For travelers seeking a straightforward sightseeing experience, this might be a bit niche. But for those craving an offbeat, immersive journey into Cold War secrets, it’s a memorable trip that combines history, mystery, and a touch of adventure.

FAQs

Is transportation included in the tour? No, the tour does not include transfer, so you will need to organize your own transportation to the meeting point in front of the airplane.

How long does the tour last? The tour typically lasts about 2 to 3 hours, depending on group size and questions.

Is it suitable for children? The tour isn’t suitable for children under 8 years old due to the dark tunnels and physical nature of exploration.

Are the tunnels safe to walk through? The guide will provide safety instructions and equipment like flashlights, but keep in mind some areas may be damaged or uneven.

Can I cancel my booking? Yes, you can cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund.

Is the tour accessible for people with mobility issues? No, it’s not suitable for wheelchair users or people with mobility difficulties because of the dark, uneven tunnels.

What should I wear? Sturdy shoes and layered clothing, including a jacket or hoodie, are recommended. Bringing a mask is also advisable for respiratory comfort.

Are flashlights provided? Yes, strong flashlights are included in the tour.

Can I explore the site on my own? While you can walk the runway or view the site independently, the guided tour provides much richer context and stories.

What is the maximum group size? The exact group size isn’t specified, but reviews mention a relaxed, personable experience, often with just a small group.

Final Word

For travelers craving an authentic glimpse into Cold War infrastructure and military history, the Zeljava Airbase tour delivers in spades. It balances informative storytelling with the thrill of exploring an abandoned, secretive site. The knowledgeable guides, like Antonio, turn a potentially eerie experience into a lively, educational journey.

Despite some physical demands and restrictions, the overall value — both in terms of cost and content — makes this tour a standout experience in Croatia. It’s a rare opportunity to walk through history, hear personal stories, and enjoy spectacular views, all in one visit.

If you’re ready for a journey into the past that’s atmospheric, revealing, and a little adventurous, this tour is well worth considering.

You can check availability for your dates here: